Quick answer: For net-wrapped dry-hay bales in a barn, stacking on end (flat side down, "eye to the sky") keeps bales round and lets your second row run the full width of the barn. Stacking on the side packs more bales into a short building but risks flat-siding the bottom bales as they settle. Most producers stack 2–4 high on end with pallet forks. Net wrap removes the old sisal "rotting strings" reason to stack on end — but bale shape is still a reason to.
If you've just switched from sisal twine to net wrap, the first question that comes up when the barn starts filling is simple: do I still stack these on end, or can I lay them on their sides now?
It's a good question, and the answer actually changes when you switch to net wrap. With sisal-tied bales, you stacked the bottom row on end for one specific reason — to keep the strings off the dirt so they wouldn't rot through. Net wrap doesn't rot like sisal, so that constraint is gone. But a new trade-off takes its place, and getting it wrong costs you either barn space or bale shape.
This post walks through how to stack net-wrapped round bales indoors — orientation, height, what equipment makes it safe, and the one mistake that flat-sides your bales.
Why net wrap changes the old stacking rule
For generations, the standard barn move with sisal-tied bales was: bottom row on end, next rows normal. Here's how one producer described the habit as he switched over:
"On sisal string round hay bales, I placed bottom bales on end to keep from rotting strings off. Next 2 rows were placed normal. Now I have net wrapped bales this year. How should I place them in the barn?"
— Hay Hud Ohio, East Central Missouri · AgTalk thread 1215954
The reason for that old rule was purely about the twine: sisal in contact with damp dirt rots, the strings let go, and the bale slumps. Stand it on the flat end and the strings stay up off the ground.
Net wrap is high-density polyethylene. It doesn't rot, doesn't wick ground moisture into the strings, and doesn't let go the way sisal does (this is one of the core reasons producers switch — see net wrap vs twine). So the historical reason to stack on end disappears with net wrap.
That doesn't mean orientation no longer matters. It means the deciding factor shifts from string rot to bale shape and barn geometry.
Stacking on end (flat side down): the shape-keeper
The strongest consensus from producers who've run net wrap through a winter is that on-end stacking keeps bales round and pretty:
"I stored all mine upright, keeps 'em rounder and prettier. 4x5 bales stacked 4 tall."
— PTO, North Central IN · AgTalk thread 1215954
"The drawback on placing round bales on their side is that they tend to flat-side or mash. They don't seem to do that when stacked on end."
— wbstofer, SE Indiana · AgTalk thread 1215954
Why it works: a bale standing on its flat end carries the weight of the bales above it down through the dense, well-formed core, which resists deformation. A bale lying on its round side carries that same weight on a curved contact patch, and over months of storage that patch flattens — "elephant-footing" the bottom bales and ruining their shape.
The bonus: on-end stacking can also buy you barn width.
"Stacking on end, the second row can be the full width of the barn. One less otherwise."
— oldbob, Northeast · AgTalk thread 1215954
A common on-end pattern
A widely used approach from the thread: eye-to-the-sky, four high, set with a telehandler:
"We stack them all eye to the sky, four high… Use both pallet forks and double spears to stack and unstack. Pallets on the floor and sometimes plastic sheet under that."
— Albert, SW Ohio · AgTalk thread 1215954
Pallets (and sometimes a plastic sheet) under the bottom row keep ground moisture from wicking up into the hay — net wrap protects the wrap, but the cut face of the bale on a damp concrete or dirt floor can still pull moisture.
Stacking on the side: when it makes sense
Laying bales on their round side isn't wrong — it's a trade. You give up some bale shape to gain density in a low building or to use a bale spear instead of forks.
Several producers run a hybrid: two on end, top row on the side.
"I stack 2 on end and 1 upright. Has to do with loader reach and height of barn."
— Tiberius, Southern Indiana · AgTalk thread 1215954
"Most are on end 2–4 high… have started doing some two on end, and top row on side. Can put them in with a spear that way."
— North Central OH · AgTalk thread 1215954
The catch, and the experienced warning from the same thread: more than one row on its side gets unstable, and you lose space:
"Either way, more than one row on side / net get unstable fast and you lose space."
So the practical rule is: if you stack on the side at all, keep it to the top row only, where there's no weight above it to flat-side it and nothing for it to roll onto.
Choosing your orientation: a quick decision guide
| Your situation | Best orientation |
|---|---|
| You sell hay and bale appearance matters | On end (keeps bales round) |
| Low barn, want maximum bale count | Side, or hybrid (2 on end + top on side) |
| Stacking with a bale spear, not forks | Top row on side; ends below |
| Soft or under-dense bales | On end (they flat-side worst on the side) |
| Tall barn + telehandler | On end, 4 high, full-width second row |
If your bales tend to lose shape in storage regardless of orientation, the root cause is usually density at the baler, not the stack — see round bales not holding shape.
Equipment and safety: stack it without wearing a bale
Indoor stacking 3–4 high means lifting bales overhead, and a 4x5 dry-hay bale can run 800–1,200+ lb depending on crop and moisture (check round bale weight by baler model for your machine). A few hard-won notes from the thread:
- Pallet forks beat a single spear for stacking on end. Forks cradle the flat face and set the bale square; a spear wants to let it roll.
- Telehandlers and skid steers are the common tools — a telehandler's reach lets you build full-width rows and go 4 high cleanly.
- Check your ROPS/cab. This warning was blunt and worth repeating:
"Make sure the ROPS is good, you will have a couple fall on the cab before you figure it out."
— PTO, North Central IN · AgTalk thread 1215954
Stack with the loader low until the bale is over its spot, keep people out from under a raised bale, and don't build higher than your equipment can place a bale under control rather than tossing it.
What about moisture and the barn floor?
Net wrap solves the string-rot problem, but it doesn't make the bale waterproof or wick-proof at the cut face. University of Arkansas extension guidance on round bale storage (FSA-3137) makes the same point: even indoors, ground contact and trapped moisture drive most dry-matter loss. Best practices that carried across the thread:
- Pallets (or a breaker pad) under the bottom row to break ground contact and let air move.
- A plastic sheet under the pallets on dirt or damp concrete floors.
- Net wrap still lets the bale breathe through the wrap, which is good for dry hay curing in storage — don't seal a still-curing bale in plastic.
If you're storing outside instead of in a barn, the orientation logic is similar but the weather exposure changes the math — see storing net-wrapped bales outside and the general round-bale storage guide.
The bottom line
Switching to net wrap frees you from the old "stack on end so the strings don't rot" rule — but on-end stacking is still the best default because it keeps bales round, lets you run full-width second rows, and resists flat-siding under load. Lay bales on the side only when a low barn or a bale spear makes it worth trading some shape for density, and if you do, keep it to the top row.
Whatever orientation you choose, the foundation is a well-formed, properly wrapped bale to begin with. XES factory-direct net wrap holds dense, square-shouldered bales together through stacking and feed-out — DLG-certified, in every common size for John Deere, Vermeer, New Holland, and Case IH balers, with free shipping.
Frequently asked questions
Do I still need to stack net-wrapped bales on end like I did with sisal twine?
No — the on-end rule for sisal existed to keep strings off the ground so they wouldn't rot. Net wrap (HDPE) doesn't rot, so that reason is gone. Most producers still stack on end anyway, because it keeps bales round and lets the second row run the full width of the barn.
Can I lay net-wrapped round bales on their side in the barn?
Yes, but the bottom and middle bales tend to flat-side (mash) under the weight above them over months of storage. If you stack on the side, keep it to the top row only, where nothing is pressing down on it.
How high can I safely stack round bales in a barn?
Commonly 3–4 high on end with a telehandler or skid steer. Go only as high as your loader can place a bale under full control, and make sure your ROPS/cab is sound — bales do fall during stacking.
Should I put anything under the bottom row?
Yes. Pallets (or a drainage breaker pad) break ground contact and let air circulate, and a plastic sheet under the pallets helps on dirt or damp concrete. Net wrap protects the wrap, but the cut face of the bale can still wick moisture from a wet floor.
Will net-wrapped bales hold their shape better than twine bales in storage?
Generally yes — net wrap grips the whole cylindrical surface and doesn't loosen the way sisal can. If bales still lose shape, the usual culprit is low baler density, not the wrap or the stack.
This guide is maintained by the XES Netting team — a bale net-wrap manufacturer. Every farmer quote in this post is verbatim with a thread link, so you can go read the originals.
Featured photo: Reeder Creek Ranch, CO by inkknife_2000, licensed under CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons.
