Quick answer: Winterizing a baler is six jobs: get every bit of crop out, grease every zerk while the machine is still warm, coat the bare metal that rusts (cutterbars, knives, bale chamber, knotter bill hooks), take the tension off the belts and springs, pull the partial net wrap or twine out of the machine, and make it unattractive to mice. Do it in the week you finish baling — not in April — because chaff holds moisture against steel all winter and a rodent nest in the wiring harness is a spring repair bill, not a fall chore. Store it inside if you have room; if not, clean it anyway and use a breathable cover rather than a sealed tarp.
Hay season ends the way it always does: you finish the last field, park the baler in whatever spot is open, and mean to get back to it. Then it is March and the machine has a mouse nest in the twine box and a rust bloom down the bale chamber. This guide is for anyone who owns a round or small square baler and wants it to start next season the way it finished this one — written from what long-time balers on the hay forums actually do, not a generic maintenance listicle.
The order matters more than most people expect. Clean first, lubricate second, protect third, and de-tension last. Doing it out of order means you grease over chaff or spray protectant onto a wet, dirty surface.
1. Get the crop out — and settle the wash-vs-blow argument
Crop residue is the problem you are actually solving. Chaff is hygroscopic: it pulls moisture out of humid air and holds it against bare steel for months. It is also the fuel load behind most off-season and in-season baler fires, which is why the cleanout is worth doing properly rather than knocking off the loose stuff.
Start with air, not water. A leaf blower gets more out of a baler than a pressure washer will, and it does not drive residue deeper into bearings and crevices:
"Blow out all the loose hay, chaff and dust. (Leaf blower works good.) Use Wash & Wax to clean all the crud off the sheet metal. Then spray wax and wipe dry. WD40 on all the shiny surfaces. Lube roller chains, grease bearings."
— rjmoses · HayTalk thread 103464
Whether you follow the air with water is genuinely contested, and the right answer depends on your climate. In a dry climate, washing the interior can do more harm than good:
"I never wash the interior of my 3x3 baler. I blow it all out but no matter how hard you work at it there is always still hay dust somewhere. I feel that getting all that wet and having it stick to the metal is worse then just leaving the dust."
— Teslan · HayTalk thread 23534
In a humid one, the same dust is a sponge:
"If it stayed dust, I'd be OK with it, but I've seen it get harder and harder. I wash as much off as I can because I believe that the dust will attract and hold moisture against the metal here. Remember: The average daily low humidity here is 60%. I will get condensation on machinery inside the shed."
— rjmoses · HayTalk thread 23534
The practical rule: blow everything out everywhere. Wash the sheet metal everywhere. Only wash the interior if you live somewhere humid enough that dust will hold water anyway — and if you do, let it dry completely before you close the door on it. Never leave a bale or a slug of crop in the chamber over winter. For more on why residue matters year-round, see round baler fires and how to prevent them.
2. Grease every zerk — while the machine is still warm
Fresh grease is not just lubrication going into storage; it is moisture displacement. Pumping each bearing until clean grease appears pushes out the water and grit that worked past the seal during the season, which is exactly the mix that pits a race over a wet winter.
"Manuals often recommend fresh grease before storage. I put grease on the shiny parts of the knotters (bill hooks and twine disks). I also spray diesel on the hay path to help prevent rust."
— bool · HayTalk thread 103464
Grease warm if you can — right after the last field, while the bearings are still up to temperature and the grease flows into the joint instead of sitting in the fitting. Then wipe the excess off the outside. A bead of grease left hanging on a zerk is a dirt magnet, and next spring it will be a ring of grinding paste.
Do the chains at the same time, with a light penetrating oil rather than a heavy tacky spray — chain wear happens inside the pin-and-bushing joint where thick oil cannot reach. The full argument, and what operators actually got for chain life, is in our guide to round baler chains and bearings.
3. Coat the bare metal before it sweats
Every surface the crop polishes during the season — cutterbar, knives, bale chamber walls, roller faces, knotter bill hooks — is unpainted steel with nothing left on it. Those are the surfaces that flash-rust first. The forums are split on product but unanimous on the principle:
"Fluid Film on the cutterbars, bale chambers, and all knives."
— Vol · HayTalk thread 23534
"I mix diesel fuel and motor oil and spray it on with one of those air powered engine degreaser wands... I use that on cutter bars and inside the round baler on the side sheets where the paint gets rubbed off."
— ARD Farm · HayTalk thread 23534
Lanolin-based protectants, diesel-and-oil mixes, and water-displacing sprays all work; the one that fails is the one you skip. Sheet metal is a separate job — a coat of wax once a year keeps oxidation off the paint and, as one operator points out, makes next season's cleanup easier because dust does not stick to a waxed panel:
"Another plus to keeping the stuff waxed, if you blow the equipment off immediately after use before anything really has a chance to stick, it'll almost look like you just washed it again as the dust doesn't stick near as bad."
— mlappin · HayTalk thread 15321
4. Take the tension off
This is the step most people skip, and it is the one with a real dollar cost attached. Round baler belts held under full tension around a small-diameter roller for six months can take a set — a permanent curve or flat spot that makes them track badly and slap when you start up in the spring. Releasing the belt tension (or dropping the tensioner to its lowest setting) for storage is standard winterizing guidance, and it is a five-minute job.
"How about taking the torsion bar tension off the Mower Conditioner Rollers, yea or nay? Also leave tension on round baler belts or remove tension?"
— Grateful11 · HayTalk thread 23534
"Wash and wax all surface tin. Clean all interior parts with hose, then spray with WD40. Clean chains, bearings, grease and lube. Fluid film where appropriate. Release tension on belts. Tarp if sitting outside."
— rjmoses · HayTalk thread 23534
On a small square baler, the equivalent jobs are the flywheel slip clutch and the tires:
"If you wanted to be really fastidious you could also release the tension in the flywheel slip clutch and ensure the tires are at full pressure (or even put the baler on blocks)."
— bool · HayTalk thread 103464
That is not just forum folklore — clutch manufacturers say the same thing, because friction material left compressed against the plates for six humid months can take a set and seize. Our guide to the baler slip clutch and shear bolt covers the release-and-re-torque procedure in detail.
Safety first: belts and tensioners are spring- and hydraulic-loaded. Shut the tractor off, remove the key, and follow your operator manual's lockout procedure before reaching into the chamber or releasing a tensioner. If your belts are already near the end of their life, winter is the cheapest time to find out — see when to replace round baler belts.
5. Deal with the wrap system before you walk away
The net wrap and twine system is the part of the baler most likely to be left exactly as it was when the last bale came out — partial roll still loaded, tail still threaded, duckbill still holding net. That is a mistake on three fronts: the roll is a mouse buffet, the net sitting in the machine collects condensation, and next spring you will not remember how much was left on it.
Do this instead:
- Pull the partial roll out and store it upright, indoors, off a concrete floor, in its packaging or a sealed bag. Unopened net wrap keeps for years, but the two things that ruin it are UV and moisture — see does net wrap go bad in storage.
- Mark the remaining footage on the roll with a marker before it goes on the shelf, so spring-you knows whether it will finish a field.
- Clean the net pan, rollers and knife. Baked-on residue on the pan and duckbill is a leading cause of feed faults, and it is far easier to remove now than after it cures all winter.
- Blow out the twine box and empty it. Sisal in particular is nesting material, and a twine box is a perfect mouse condo.
- Grease the knotter bill hooks and twine disks on a square baler, as bool describes above. They are polished steel and they rust fast.
When you reload in the spring, our guide to loading net wrap in a baler walks through threading and tension. And if you are going to buy for next season, the off-season is usually the right time to do it — see when to buy net wrap.
6. Mice are the real enemy
Rodents cause more expensive off-season damage than rust does, because they chew wiring harnesses and monitor cables — a repair that is both costly and maddening to diagnose in the first field next June. Every deterrent has its believers, and at least one has documented failures:
"Bar or two of Zest soap stashed by wiring to keep mice away."
— rjmoses · HayTalk thread 103464
"I tried the Zest soap idea a few different times. By spring the mice had completely eaten the bar of soap....."
— chevytaHOE5674 · HayTalk thread 103464
"Blow out twine box, put a bunch of dryer sheets in the twine box and inside twine balls (I only use sisal not plastic, and dryer sheets work great to keep mice away)."
— SwingOak · HayTalk thread 103464
Scent deterrents — soap, dryer sheets, peppermint oil — are inconsistent and need refreshing when the scent fades. Treat them as a supplement, not a plan. What actually works is removing the food and the nesting material (the cleanout in step 1 and the twine box in step 5), then controlling the population in the building with traps or bait stations placed away from where livestock or pets can reach them. Long-time operators just say it plainly: "don't forget the rat poison." The same logic applies to stored hay — see keeping mice and rats out of stored hay.
7. Inside, outside, or under a tarp?
Inside is better. Everyone agrees on that, and the resale evidence is hard to argue with — one operator who sheds and waxes his equipment reported getting nearly what he paid back in trade. The interesting question is what to do when the shed is full.
A plain tarp is not automatically the answer. Two problems come up repeatedly. First, a loose tarp in wind sands the paint off:
"Neighbor uses a tarp on his, problem is if the wind starts to blow and the tarp moves around, will wear the paint right off."
— mlappin · HayTalk thread 15321
Second, an impermeable cover over a machine sitting on bare ground traps ground moisture underneath it and creates the humid microclimate you were trying to avoid:
"The only thing I would be cautious about is that impermeable covers tend to trap moisture evaporating up from the ground. May not be a problem up in the frozen north, but here in Ga, it is definitely a concern."
— RockmartGA · HayTalk thread 15321
If the baler must live outside: clean it exactly as you would for indoor storage, park it on gravel or sod rather than dirt, use a fitted breathable cover or leave it open rather than sealing it under poly, and keep the belts out of direct sun — UV is what hardens and cracks them. An open-front shed plus a cover is a good middle ground, which is what one Tennessee producer settled on after weighing 50 inches of annual rainfall against a full building.
8. Do next spring's work now
The last 30 minutes of winterizing buys you the most in June. If a gearbox oil change is due, do it in the fall so it is not competing with a cutting window. Check the tires and air them up. Photograph or note anything you limped through the season with — a worn pickup tooth, a marginal bearing, a chain you kept tightening — while it is fresh, so the parts order goes in during the off-season instead of during first cutting.
"If time permits and gearbox oil change due, change oil so it doesn't have to be done next spring."
— rjmoses · HayTalk thread 103464
Dealer pre-season inspections are worth considering if you would rather not do the work yourself, but they are neither cheap nor standardized — one Ontario producer was quoted $379 CAD, discounted by $100 for booking early. There is no industry-wide definition of what a "pre-season service" includes:
"There is no set 'standard' for a pre-season service. It is whatever each dealer wants to do and charge for."
— chevytaHOE5674 · HayTalk thread 66881
"The important aspect to an inspection is to have someone doing the inspection that knows something about the product. Checking oil levels and washing a machine is not something that takes a lot of expertise. Spotting potential problems that are not obvious takes an experienced person."
— mike10 · HayTalk thread 66881
If you book one, ask what is on their checklist first, and ask them to look at the specific things you flagged during the season.
The end-of-season baler checklist
Print this and work down it in the week you finish baling.
- Eject any bale; confirm the chamber is empty.
- Blow out chaff — chamber, pickup, drive tunnels, belts, twine box, monitor box.
- Wash sheet metal; wash interior only if your climate is humid. Dry fully.
- Grease every zerk until clean grease shows; wipe the excess off.
- Oil the roller chains with a light penetrating oil.
- Coat the cutterbar, knives, chamber walls, rollers and bill hooks with a rust protectant.
- Wax the painted panels.
- Release belt tension (round) or slip-clutch tension (square).
- Remove the partial net wrap roll; label the remaining footage; store it dry and indoors.
- Clean the net pan, duckbill and knife; empty and blow out the twine box.
- Set tires to full pressure, or block the machine up.
- Bait or trap for rodents in the storage building; refresh scent deterrents.
- Change gearbox oil if it is due.
- Write down every fault you limped through, and order those parts now.
- Park inside if possible; if not, on gravel, under a breathable cover, out of direct sun.
Frequently asked questions
Should you release baler belt tension for winter storage?
Yes. Belts held under full tension around a small-diameter roller for months can take a permanent set, which makes them track poorly and slap when you start up again. Releasing the tension — or dropping the tensioner to its lowest position — is standard off-season practice and takes only a few minutes. Shut the machine down and follow your manual's lockout procedure first.
Should you pressure wash a baler before storing it?
Blow it out with air first — that removes more residue than water does. Wash the painted sheet metal. Whether to wash the interior depends on climate: in dry regions, wetting interior dust is often worse than leaving it. If you do wash inside, let it dry completely and keep high pressure off bearings and seals.
Should I leave net wrap in the baler over winter?
No. Pull the partial roll out, note the remaining footage on it, and store it upright and indoors, off a concrete floor and out of sunlight. A roll left threaded in the machine collects condensation and attracts rodents, and net wrap's two real enemies in storage are UV and moisture. Clean the net pan and duckbill at the same time.
What actually keeps mice out of a stored baler?
Removing what they want, first. Blow out all crop residue and empty the twine box, because chaff and sisal are food and nesting material. Then control the population in the building with traps or bait stations. Scent deterrents like soap, dryer sheets and peppermint oil are inconsistent — one operator reported mice eating the soap entirely over a winter.
Is it bad to store a baler outside under a tarp?
It is better than storing it dirty, but worse than a shed. A loose tarp flogging in wind will wear paint off, and an impermeable cover over a machine on bare ground traps moisture rising from the soil. If outdoor storage is unavoidable, clean the machine properly, park on gravel or sod, use a fitted breathable cover, and keep the belts out of direct sunlight.
When should I winterize — right after baling or before spring?
Right after you finish baling. Crop residue holds moisture against bare metal all winter, so every week it sits is corrosion time you cannot get back. Greasing while the bearings are still warm also helps the grease flow into the joint and push moisture out. Doing it in the fall also moves parts ordering into the off-season instead of into your first cutting window.
This guide is maintained by the XES Netting team — a bale net-wrap manufacturer. Every farmer quote in this post is verbatim with a thread link, so you can go read the originals. Procedures vary by make and model: always follow your baler's operator manual, and shut the machine down and lock it out before reaching into the chamber or releasing a tensioner.
Featured photo: New Holland 688 hay baler by Acroterion, licensed under CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons.
