Quick answer: Most round balers will run a roll one size narrower than the one they shipped with, and three things decide whether any roll fits: width (room in the cradle), roll outside diameter (long 9,840 ft and 13,200 ft rolls are physically fatter and will not drop into some older net boxes), and core inside diameter (3 in is the standard). Going narrower, you must center the roll with spacers — tennis balls pushed into the core are the classic farm fix — and reset the net brake, or the monitor will alarm. Going wider is the riskier direction, because the extra inches can find chains, bearings, and the ends of the net spreader roll.
This is the question that stops a lot of farmers halfway through a net wrap order: my baler came set up for one width — can I actually run a different one? It usually comes up because the OEM width is expensive, because a dealer has a deal on something else, or because you are tired of edge-covering net snagging when you unroll a bale. The good news is that swapping widths is routine. The catch is that it is not always a drop-in, and the two or three adjustments nobody mentions are exactly the ones that generate a service call.
This guide is for round baler owners choosing a roll that was not the factory default. If you are still deciding which width you want, start with the net wrap sizes guide or the baler size checker. What follows is the mechanical side: what has to change on the machine once you have picked.
On this page
The three things that decide whether a roll fits
Farmers almost always ask about width, because width is what is printed on the box. Width is only one of three constraints, and it is not usually the one that bites.
1. Width — is there room in the cradle?
Net widths cluster around a few sizes: 48 in and 51 in for 4-ft chambers, 64 in and 67 in for 5-ft chambers. Most net boxes have physical room for the next size up or down, and on newer machines you can reposition the roll holder. As one long-time baler put it in a thread about running 51 in net in a 48 in machine:
"Most nets run 48 or 51". … Newer ones you can just move the pins on the holder so it runs in the center. Biggest issue is net getting in chains and bearings because its wider and running closer to them."
— swmnhay · HayTalk thread 75362
2. Roll outside diameter — the constraint that actually stops people
This is the one that catches folks out. A 9,840 ft or 13,200 ft roll holds far more net than a short 7,000 ft roll, and all that extra material has to go somewhere — the roll is simply fatter. Plenty of older net boxes were built around short rolls and will not close over a long one, regardless of width:
"What I have been told by people who have tried it is the longer rolls will not fit."
— mike10 · HayTalk thread 75362
If you are moving to a longer roll to cut roll changes, measure the clear space in the net box before you order a pallet, not after. Roll length also drives roll weight, which is a separate buying decision covered in net wrap roll weight vs quality.
3. Core inside diameter — usually 3 in, and it matters more on some machines
The cardboard core's inside diameter is standardised at 3 in across the mainstream brands, with 2 in cores appearing on some products. On balers that carry the roll in a pan or cradle, a slightly odd core is a non-event. On machines that hold the roll on stub shafts that go inside the core, the core ID is a hard compatibility spec — get it wrong and the roll simply will not mount.
| Constraint | Typical spec | What goes wrong if you ignore it |
|---|---|---|
| Width | 48 / 51 in (4-ft), 64 / 67 in (5-ft) | Roll wanders (too narrow) or net escapes the chamber (too wide) |
| Roll outside diameter | Grows with roll length (7,000 → 13,200 ft) | Net box will not close; roll fouls the lid |
| Core inside diameter | 3 in standard (2 in on some rolls) | Will not seat on stub-shaft machines; off-centre feed elsewhere |
Going narrower: centering the roll with spacers
Dropping a narrower roll into a wider cradle is the most common swap — usually to save money, or to get away from net that wraps around the bale edge. The problem is simple physics: the roll now has slack to slide side to side, and a roll that wanders does not feed straight.
"I am going to run 48 in net wrap in my John Deere round baler this year. What are you folks putting in for spacers to keep the roll centered? Deere offers a part but they are really pricey."
— haysprout · HayTalk thread 95578
The OEM spacer kits work, and if you already have them, use them. But the farm-built answers have been running for years. The most repeated one is a pair of tennis balls:
"2 tennis balls is what I suggested to my neighbor. The[y] seem to work fine."
— Tx Jim · HayTalk thread 95578
The detail people get wrong is where the balls go. They do not sit in the cradle beside the roll — they go into the core itself:
"No you put them in the center tube part way"
— swmnhay · HayTalk thread 95578
Two more options from the same thread, both free: cut short sections off a spent core and use them as collars, or take the plastic end caps that hold the sleeve on and bond two together back to back.
"You can use the end caps that hold the plastic sleeve on and tape or glue 2 back to back. Price is right!"
— swmnhay · HayTalk thread 95578
Two gotchas worth knowing before you buy tennis balls
First, on some brands you have to reinstall the plastic end caps into the core before a tennis ball will seat properly. Second — and this is the one that sends people back to the hardware store — not every core has the same inside diameter, and a tennis ball is a fixed size:
"I am using Piippo Hybrid wrap and know the roll tubes are to big for a tennis ball. Wiffle ball maybe..or a stop at the plumbing department?"
— haysprout · HayTalk thread 95578
That is exactly why core ID belongs on your spec list alongside width and length. A plumbing coupler or end cap sized to your actual core is the more reliable answer than assuming a ball will fit.
| Spacer option | Cost | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| OEM spacer kit | Highest | Correct fit, no fabrication; often already in the toolbox with the baler |
| Two tennis balls | Low | Push part way into the core, not into the cradle; won't fit oversize cores |
| Cut sections of a spent core | Free | Perfectly matched ID by definition; cut square so they seat flat |
| Two plastic end caps bonded back to back | Free | Uses the caps off the roll you just finished |
| Plumbing coupler / wiffle ball | Low | The fallback when the core ID is too big for a tennis ball |
Resetting the net brake after a width change
Here is the step that separates a clean swap from one where the net wraps but the monitor complains all day. A narrower roll has less surface for the brake to work against and less mass to spin, so the brake tension that was right for the wide roll is wrong for the new one. A grower trying 64 in net in a 5-ft John Deere ran straight into it:
"Trying to get around the high price of 67" wrap from Deere, I tried putting in a roll of 64". … They wrapped but I got alarm and Stop! signal on the monitor after both of them. Is that normal? If so probably not worth the $150/roll savings."
— markinIL · HayTalk thread 93718
The first reply named the cause immediately:
"Did you put spacers in the end of the roll? If not there is your problem. The roll can't move around in the cradle, has to stay centered to work."
— carcajou · HayTalk thread 93718
And the second added the half of the job that is easy to skip:
"Also besides needing spacers to center roll of net the netwrap brake requires different setting by changing location of some shims on brake pulley."
— Tx Jim · HayTalk thread 93718
On John Deere machines those shims are not a part you order — they are already bolted to the machine, parked where you can find them:
"JD includes one or two shims (varies) bolted right on to the brake pad mount. To me they look just like pieces of plated 3/16" or 1/4" steel. You unbolt the shim then re-install it behind the brake pad. Always assuming there is enough meat left on the brake pad."
— Snow Farmer · HayTalk thread 93718
Check your operator manual for the procedure on your model — the shim locations and target tension are model-specific — but the principle carries across brands: change roll width, re-check net brake tension. If the net still will not start or feed cleanly afterwards, work through net wrap won't start or feed.
Going wider: what those extra inches catch on
Fitting a wider roll than the machine was set up for is the riskier direction, and the reason is not the chamber — it is everything that lives just outside it. Net that runs closer to the sides finds moving parts:
"There is a chain running very close to the netwrap … a guy showed me on one of his 3 balers that had some net caught in it pointing out why you run 64 vs 67 in that NH baler. NH actually sells a guard as a update to help prevent net getting in the chain there."
— swmnhay · HayTalk thread 75362
Owners running 51 in net in 48 in New Holland machines report the same thing, and the cleanup is not a five-minute job:
"I'm going to have to get a guard on the 7070. Tightened up the brake on the wrap and that did the trick, but getting the wrap off that sprocket shaft was beastly. Using 51" on an edge wrap 4x6."
— Uphayman · HayTalk thread 75362
There are two factory answers for the BR-series, plus a maintenance angle that matters just as much:
"There are a couple of things you can do on the BR balers. Add the shield to block that area off and there is also a different baffle avialable with wings on the end to hold the net wrap from spreading to far outward. … low net tension or dull knives shread the net leaving longer strands that can exit the chamber area."
— mike10 · HayTalk thread 75362
That last sentence is the underrated part. Wider net does not wander off on its own — it usually gets shredded into long strands first by a dull knife or slack tension, and then those strands go exploring. Before you blame the width, sharpen the knife and set the brake. The other place to watch is the ends of the net spreader roll, where stray net builds up into a hard donut. If your problem is the opposite — net not reaching the bale edge at all — see net wrap not covering to the edge.
Worth saying plainly: several experienced balers in that thread advised against going wider at all. "It's not going to work" was the very first reply. Narrower is the swap with a well-trodden path; wider is the one that needs a guard kit and a careful first two bales.
Feed path and roll mounting differ by brand
If you are switching net brands at the same time as widths, know that the machines thread differently. John Deere balers feed over the roll and down between rubber rollers, with the roll unwinding counter-clockwise. New Holland comes off the top:
"The net on a New Holland rolls clockwise off of the top of the roller. So the deere comes off the bottom?"
— NDVA HAYMAN · HayTalk thread 13594
Vermeer's M-series is the genuine outlier, and it is the clearest example of why core ID is a real spec:
"Vermeer net wrap system is totatly different than JD's. In the M series anyway. There is no feedrollers in Vermeer. And the rolls are held by stub shafts on inside of roll. Not sitting in a pan.. And you don't need talc powder either."
— swmnhay · HayTalk thread 13594
| Brand | How the roll is carried | Width-swap notes |
|---|---|---|
| John Deere | Pan/cradle, feeds down into rubber rollers | Needs spacers + brake shim relocation when going narrower |
| New Holland | Front-mounted system, net comes off the top | Reposition holder pins; guard/baffle kits exist for wider net |
| Vermeer (M-series) | Stub shafts inside the core — no pan, no feed rollers | Core inside diameter is a hard fit spec |
Model-specific walkthroughs live in John Deere net wrap problems, New Holland net wrap problems, and Vermeer net wrap problems. For threading in general, see how to load net wrap in a baler.
The five-minute check before you buy
Run this with a tape measure at the baler before you commit to a pallet:
- Measure the clear width inside the net cradle, edge to edge. That is your maximum roll width, and you want a little margin, not a press fit.
- Measure the clear height and depth of the net box with the lid closed path in mind. Compare that to the outside diameter of the roll length you are considering — this is what rules out long rolls in older boxes.
- Measure the core inside diameter of the roll currently in the machine. Confirm the new roll matches, especially on stub-shaft machines.
- Decide your spacer plan if you are going narrower, and check that your chosen spacer actually fits your core ID.
- Find the brake adjustment in your operator manual now, while the machine is parked and clean, rather than in the field at dusk.
- Bale two test bales and walk around the machine. Look at the spreader roll ends, any nearby chains, and the cut edge of the net before you commit the day to it.
Two test bales is genuinely the standard advice — as one grower dryly noted about going wider, "it'll only take 2 bales to find out."
A note on edge-to-edge versus edge-covering net
Width swaps and net style often get tangled together, because the reason many people move from 67 in to 64 in (or 51 in to 48 in) is that they no longer want net wrapping around the bale edge. The tradeoffs are real on both sides. Edge-covering net holds bale corners better and looks sharper to buyers; edge-to-edge yields more bales per roll and peels off cleanly at feeding time. One producer summed up his switch:
"The main reasons I changed to edge to edge is more bales produced per roll of net & I got tired of cleaning net off the little spreader augers on each end of attachment."
— Tx Jim · HayTalk thread 93718
Neither is wrong. Just decide the style question and the width question together — see CoverEdge alternatives, 48 vs 51 inch net wrap, and 64 vs 67 inch net wrap.
Where XES fits
We make net wrap in the common widths — 48 in, 51 in, 64 in and 67 in — on standard 3 in cores, so a roll behaves predictably in a cradle or on stub shafts. Every roll spec sheet lists width, length, roll outside diameter and core inside diameter, which are the four numbers this whole article is about; you should not have to guess whether a roll physically fits before it arrives. If you want a second opinion on a width, run your model through the baler size checker or browse the net wrap product page.
The bottom line
Running a different-width roll is normal, not exotic. Going narrower is the well-worn path: center the roll with spacers pushed into the core, reset the net brake, and expect the monitor to complain until you do both. Going wider is possible on many machines but needs the guard or baffle kit, a sharp knife, and proper tension so net never shreds into strands that can escape. And before any of it, measure three numbers — width, roll outside diameter, core inside diameter — because the roll that will not fit is far more often too fat than too wide.
Frequently asked questions
Can I run 48 inch net wrap in a 51 inch baler?
Yes, and it is one of the most common swaps. The roll must be centered in the cradle with spacers, because a narrower roll can slide side to side and will not feed straight. You also need to re-check net brake tension for the lighter roll. Without both, expect monitor alarms.
What can I use for net wrap roll spacers?
Tennis balls pushed part way into each end of the core are the classic fix. Short sections cut from a spent core work perfectly because the diameter matches by definition, and two plastic end caps bonded back to back also work. Check your core inside diameter first — oversize cores need a wiffle ball or plumbing coupler instead.
Why does my monitor alarm after switching net wrap width?
Two causes, usually together. The roll is not centered, so the net feeds off-square and the sensor sees an incomplete wrap. And the net brake is still set for the old roll — a lighter, narrower roll needs different brake tension, which on John Deere means relocating shims from the brake pad mount to behind the brake pad.
Will a 13,200 ft roll fit my older baler?
Not always. Longer rolls hold more material, so their outside diameter is larger, and older net boxes were often sized around shorter rolls. Width is irrelevant if the roll is too fat to seat. Measure the clear space in your net box and compare it against the roll's stated outside diameter before ordering.
Is it safe to run wider net wrap than the baler was set up for?
It is the riskier direction. The extra width runs closer to chains, bearings and the ends of the net spreader roll, and experienced operators report net wrapping a sprocket shaft. Manufacturers sell deflector shields and winged baffles for this. Keep the knife sharp and tension correct, since shredded net is what escapes.
This guide is maintained by the XES Netting team — a bale net-wrap manufacturer. Every farmer quote in this post is verbatim with a thread link, so you can go read the originals. Adjustment procedures vary by model: always follow your baler's operator manual and lock out the machine before adjusting the net brake, changing a roll, or reaching into the chamber.
Featured photo: Round baler (Welger RP 220 Profi), backside — net box open with the roll in its cradle — by Flominator, licensed under CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons.
